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 Stitching on jerseys

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Boss302
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PostSubject: Stitching on jerseys   Tue Aug 28 2012, 07:07

Hello I have a question. Is Kiss Cut stitching, the stitching where you can only see one layer of the twill on the inside of the jersey? Also what is the name of the other type of stitching where you see both layers?

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Andyf
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PostSubject: Re: Stitching on jerseys   Tue Aug 28 2012, 10:05

I'm not sure I understand which part of the sentence is a question. I'd imagine it varies from jersey to jersey (as I believe numbering is often done by the retailer), but the kiss cut jersey I have works like this:

If you consider layer 'A' is the numbering layer next to the jersey, 'B' is layered on top of 'A' and so on, a 'normal' 3 colour number will be layered as:

outer colour A (full number)
middle colour B (full number)
inner/bulk colour C. (full number)

Each new layer is stitched onto the first one, and from what I've seen, stitched all the way through into the jersey material. The stitching overlaps the join. I'm not sure I've heard a particular name ascribed to this stitching.

The kiss cut I've seen is as follows:
Outer colour A (Thin outline)
Middle Colour B (thin outline)
Main colour A (full number).

On my kiss cut jersey, the middle colour joins the inner and outer colour, and the stitching only goes through the numbers, you can't see it on the inside of the jersey. The whole number is then attached to the jersey with a single stitch. I personally much prefer the kiss cut, because the bulk of the number is only a single layer of twill, so is more flexbile, and doesn't 'ripple' or 'bubble' in the way that 3 layer can. You can see it here



To compare, you can only see yellow thread on the inside. For a 'normal' three layer I believe you can see yellow, dark blue and white stitching on the inside (the inner stitch being of white thread, not dark blue, as the white would be on top of the blue), but that's just from memory.


Clearly there are many variations. A new Nike authentic posted here, for example, seemed to me to have the outer layer stitched on top of (not underneath) the middle layer (i.e. on layer 'C').



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Billsfan
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PostSubject: Re: Stitching on jerseys   Tue Aug 28 2012, 12:39

Great answer Andy.

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Boss302
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PostSubject: Re: Stitching on jerseys   Tue Aug 28 2012, 18:07

Thanks Andy. So this means that the jerseys where only one layer is stitched through the jersey, but the top layers lay on top of the number, is less likely to bubble as opposed to having three layers stitched through the jersey and visible on the inside is more likely to bubble correct?
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PostSubject: Re: Stitching on jerseys   Tue Aug 28 2012, 18:20

The twill shouldn't bubble really. The twill is glued to each other before sewing. Kiss cut numbers have a thin line sewn around the edges of the main number, it makes them lighter and more flexible.

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NawlinsSaints504
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PostSubject: Re: Stitching on jerseys   Thu Oct 04 2012, 04:35

Nice pic/jersey Andy!
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Andyf
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PostSubject: Re: Stitching on jerseys   Mon Nov 19 2012, 12:07

NawlinsSaints504 wrote:
Nice pic/jersey Andy!

Thanks, I lucked out getting one that turned out to be a late football fanatics 'use up blanks' batch, with kiss cut numbers and nameplate cut to the length of the player name. While I'm on the subject does anyone know /can anyone recognise which customiser this jersey is the work of, and which retailers use said customiser?



Yeah the word 'bubble' was in retrospect ill suited. What I mean is that with three layers, the stiffness of the number is significant, and, certainly the Auth I have from windy city (or perhaps it was full moon), the number evidently wasn't exactly lined up flat with the fabric when it was sewn on, meaning in some places you feel a ripple. You can kind of see what I mean on the kiss cut jersey photo (there are two minor 'pinches' or ripples on the stem of the 4), only the single layer makes the effect much less noticeable or pronounced.
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